Rear wiper not sitting properly? If it’s misaligned, too low, or hitting the car body, it can cause scratches and poor wiping performance. Good news this is a quick DIY fix you can do with basic tools.
Quick fix for misaligned rear wiper in just 2 minutes.
⚠️ Common Problem / Symptom
Signs your rear wiper is out of position.
Wiper not aligned with rear glass
Wiper sitting too low
Wiper touching or hitting car body
Uneven wiping area
👉 This usually happens when the wiper arm shifts from its original position.
🔩 Step-by-Step Guide
1️⃣ Remove Bolt Cover
Open the wiper bolt cover.
Gently open the plastic cap using your fingers or a small tool.
2️⃣ Remove 10mm Bolt
Loosen and remove the bolt.
Use a 10mm socket to remove the bolt holding the wiper arm.
3️⃣ Remove & Reposition Wiper
Adjust the wiper to correct position.
Wiggle and pull out the wiper. Reposition it properly horizontal and not touching the body.
4️⃣ Reinstall Wiper
Install back and tighten.
Install everything back in reverse order and tighten securely.
5️⃣ Test the Wiper
Make sure it works smoothly.
Turn on the wiper and check alignment and movement.
If your Perodua Viva boot won’t stay open, you’re not alone. This is a very common issue caused by worn-out rear bonnet dampers (gas struts). The good news? You can fix it yourself in just a few minutes with basic tools no need for a workshop.
Step-by-step DIY guide to fix your Viva bonnet easily.
What is a Rear Bonnet Damper?
The rear bonnet damper (also known as a gas strut) is a component that supports and holds your car’s rear hatch open.
When it fails, the hatch will:
Fall down suddenly
Not stay open
Feel weak or unstable
Step-by-Step Replacement Guide
1. Open and Support the Hatch
Ensure safety before starting.
Open the rear hatch fully and secure it with a stick or have someone hold it. ⚠️ Important: The hatch may fall once the damper is removed.
2. Locate the Retaining Clips
Identify connection points.
Find the small metal clips on both ends of the damper.
3. Remove the Retaining Clip
Remove the clip completely.
Use a screwdriver to pry out and remove the clip completely.
4. Create Clearance
Make space for easier removal.
Gently bend/pry the cover slightly outward near the damper bolt to create space for removal.
5. Remove the Damper
Lower mounting removal.
Remove 2 bolts at the bottom (cover side)
Upper mounting removal.
Then remove 2 bolts at the top (bonnet side)
Carefully take out the old damper.
6. Install the New Damper
Install the new unit in reverse order:
Fix upper section.
Fix top bolts first
Complete installation.
Then secure bottom bolts
Ensure everything is tightened properly
7. Repeat on the Other Side
Always replace both dampers together for balanced support and longer lifespan.
8. Test the Hatch
Improve durability and safety.
Open the rear bonnet and check:
✅ It should now stay open firmly
✅ No more falling or instability
Replacing the Perodua Viva rear bonnet damper is a quick and simple DIY job that can save you time and money. With just a few tools, you can restore your boot to proper working condition in under 10 minutes.
The MESR-100 ESR Meter is a compact diagnostic tool used to measure the equivalent series resistance (ESR) of capacitors. It helps technicians and hobbyists quickly identify weak or faulty capacitors during electronics troubleshooting.
MESR-100 ESR Meter Overview.
What Is an ESR Meter?
An ESR meter measures the internal resistance of a capacitor.High ESR readings often indicate capacitor degradation and can signal that replacement is needed.
Unboxing the MESR-100 ESR Meter
Package Contents.
The MESR-100 package includes the ESR meter unit, test probes, and user manual. Everything needed for basic operation is included for immediate setup.
Battery Installation and Setup
Installing Batteries.
Install the batteries into the meter and reattach the battery cover.
Powering ON.
Once powered on, the device is ready for use.
Zero Calibration Before Testing
Zero Calibration Process.
Before measuring any capacitor, the meter should be zero-calibrated by shorting the probes together and pressing the zero button. This removes probe resistance for more accurate readings.
Testing 50V 680µF Capacitor
First Capacitor Test.
A 50V 680µF electrolytic capacitor is tested first. Its ESR value is measured against the ESR reference table.
Testing 35V 1000µF Capacitor
Second Capacitor Test.
A 35V 1000µF capacitor is then tested. Its ESR reading is compared with the expected range.
Testing 10V 1000µF Capacitor
Final Capacitor Test.
The final test is performed on a 10V 1000µF electrolytic capacitor. The ESR value is checked against the reference chart.
Comparing ESR Readings with Reference Table
ESR Table Comparison.
Each measured ESR value can be compared with the reference table. This helps determine whether the capacitor remains in good condition or requires replacement.
The MESR-100 ESR Meter is a practical and affordable tool for capacitor diagnostics and electronics repair. Its compact design and fast testing capability make it a valuable addition to any technician’s toolbox.
If you regularly use rechargeable batteries such as 18650 Li-ion cells, having a reliable charger is essential. In this review, we take a closer look at the LiitoKala Lii-600, a smart battery charger packed with advanced charging and testing features. We will cover its design, specifications, charging performance, operating modes, and overall user experience.
Overview of the LiitoKala Lii-600 smart battery charger ready for testing.
What is the LiitoKala Lii-600?
The LiitoKala Lii-600 is a smart battery charger designed for charging and testing rechargeable batteries including Li-ion and NiMH/NiCd batteries. It features 4 independent charging slots, allowing users to charge different battery types and sizes simultaneously.
This charger is ideal for users who frequently work with:
18650 / 21700 / 26650 Li-ion batteries
AA / AAA NiMH rechargeable batteries
DIY electronics and battery-powered devices
Key Features
1. 4 Independent Charging Slots
Each slot works independently, allowing you to charge different battery sizes and types at the same time.
2. Multiple Charging Modes
The charger includes four operating modes:
CHARGE – Standard battery charging
DISCHARGE – Controlled battery discharge
TEST – Battery capacity testing
REPAIR – Attempts to restore weak batteries
3. Adjustable Charging Current
Users can manually select charging current depending on battery size and condition.
4. LCD Information Display
The display provides detailed real-time information such as:
Battery Voltage
Charging Current
Capacity (mAh)
Internal Resistance
Temperature
Battery Percentage
Unboxing Experience
Unboxing the LiitoKala Lii-600 package contents.
Inside the box, the LiitoKala Lii-600 package includes:
1x LiitoKala Lii-600 Charger
1x Power Adapter
1x User Manual
The charger feels solid and well-built, with a modern touch-control interface and bright LCD screen.
Battery Testing Before Charging
Measuring battery voltage with multimeter before charging.
Before charging, we tested a Li-ion battery using a multimeter. The battery measured approximately 3.4V, indicating it was partially discharged and ready for charging.
Charging Process
Step 1 – Connect Power Supply
Connecting power adapter to the charger.
Insert the included power adapter into the charger.
Step 2 – Insert Batteries
Inserting Li-ion batteries into charger slots.
Place the batteries into any of the 4 slots.
Step 3 – Charging Indicator
Red LED indicates active charging status.
Once inserted:
Red LED = Charging in progress
Green LED = Fully charged / Charging complete
Each slot has its own independent LED indicator.
Channel Selection and Slot Control
The Lii-600 allows users to select individual channels:
CH1 = Slot 1
CH2 = Slot 2
CH3 = Slot 3
CH4 = Slot 4
This enables independent monitoring and settings for each battery slot.
Performance Review
Monitoring charging performance during battery test.
Charging Speed
The charger supports adjustable current settings up to high charging rates, making it suitable for both fast and safe charging depending on battery requirements.
Accuracy
Voltage and charging data shown on the display were consistent and accurate during testing.
User Experience
The touch controls are responsive, and the interface is easy to understand after a short learning period.
Overall, the LiitoKala Lii-600 offers a strong balance of performance, features, and affordability. Whether you need to charge, test, or maintain your batteries, this charger handles the job efficiently.
A laminating machine like the OR-330 is a simple but essential tool for office and home use. However, one common issue users face is paper getting stuck inside the roller, often caused by overheating or improper feeding.
The good news?
You don’t need to replace the machine — you can fix it yourself with basic tools.
⚠️ Common Problem – Laminating Film Stuck & Overheating
When the laminator overheats, the plastic film can melt and stick to the internal heating element or rollers.
Signs of this issue:
Laminating pouch stuck halfway
Burning smell
Machine not pulling paper
Wrinkled or melted laminate output
🔌 Safety First – Always Power Off
Before opening the machine:
Unplug the laminator
Let it cool down completely
Work on a clean, flat surface
⚠️ Never open while hot — heating elements can cause burns.
🔩 Step 1: Disassemble the Laminator (Bottom Side)
Flip the machine upside down.
Removing the 4 screws from the base of the laminator.
Steps:
Remove the 4 screws at the base corners
Keep screws safely aside
This opens access to the internal structure.
🔩 Step 2: Open the Top Cover
Turn the machine back upright.
Steps:
Remove 2 screws near the indicator/control panel
Remove indicator/control panel.
Slowly lift the top cover
Carefully removing the top cover of the laminator.
👉 Be gentle — avoid damaging wires or clips.
🔥 Step 3: Access the Heating Element
Now you’ll see the heating section.
Steps:
Remove 2 screws on the heating element cover and take the cover off.
Unscrew the heating element cover carefully to access internal components.
Carefully remove the heating element
Slowly take out the heating element, ensuring no wires or components are strained.
🧩 Step 4: Identify the Problem Area & Remove the Stuck Laminating Film
At this stage, the issue becomes clear.
Stuck laminate blocking the roller and heating area.
What you’ll see:
Laminating film stuck between roller and bottom cover
Melted plastic residue
This blockage prevents smooth operation.
Steps:
Remove 2 screws from bottom heating cover and take off the cover
Gently pull out the stuck laminate
Removing the jammed laminate.
👉 Do not force it — avoid damaging rollers.
🧼 Step 6: Clean Melted Plastic Residue
Overheating often leaves sticky black plastic on the heating element.
Cleaning melted plastic residue from the heating element.
How to clean:
Use a knife or scraper carefully
Remove melted plastic slowly
Wipe with cloth if needed
⚠️ Be gentle to avoid scratching the heating surface.
🔄 Step 7: Reassemble the Machine
Now put everything back together.
Reassembling the laminator in reverse order.
Follow reverse order:
Install bottom heating cover
Reinstall heating element
Attach top heating cover
Close top casing
Secure 2 screws on top
Flip and tighten 4 bottom screws
✅ Step 8: Test the Laminator
Time to check your repair.
Laminator working smoothly after repair.
Steps:
Plug in the machine
Insert a laminating pouch
Observe smooth feeding
🎉 If everything runs smoothly — your repair is successful!
